A TASTE OF INDIA,

Taped music of Indian singers, large paintings of sequined dancers, and brass and carved artifacts set the mood for the culinary delights at Taste of India. The service was friendly, the kitchen swift, and the gulab jamun " the cardamom-and-rose-water flavored fritter which is the restaurant's claim to fame " neither too sweet nor too gluey. Other favorites were the coconut soup ($1.95), which was delicious despite its being thick with grated coconut, and the vegetable samosas ($2.25), subtly spiced and expertly fried. The shrimp masala ($10.95) was mild enough to give the shrimp and veggies their own voices, and they spoke well indeed.